Historically reserved for classic watches, the complicated two-centuries-old tourbillon invention continues to climb to new heights with top brands offering a diverse landscape of ultra-precision, ultra-alluring, and definitively superlative watches.
In fine watchmaking, the tourbillon (French for “whirlwind”), represents not only a rare phenomenon, but also one of the most desired intricacies among collectors. Its allure lies in the continuously rotating escapement, a dual-purpose mechanism that enhances accuracy while elevating aesthetic appeal.
Cherished for its rarity, beauty, and captivating charm, the tourbillon escapement traces its origins back more than 220 years, yet it continues to be one of the most coveted features in watchmaking. Essentially, the mechanical tourbillon compensates for errors in timekeeping due to the effects of gravity on the watch when held in different positions.
The first tourbillon was invented by Abraham-Louis Breguet and patented in 1801; the first tourbillion escapement sold four years later. Breguet’s device is brilliant in its simplicity: to counter gravity-induced timing errors, the mechanism constantly rotates the balance wheel, balance spring
and escapement while the movement is running, countering gravity-induced timing errors. Originally, the idea was developed for pocket watches, which predominantly remained in the same position inside a gentleman’s pocket.
The tourbillon stands as one of horology’s finest inventions, and one of the most important technological leaps forward in watchmaking. Today, advancements such as nanotechnology and precise micro-machining have somewhat simplified the production of the intricate components needed for increasingly precise tourbillons. But the tourbillon is the foundation.
Even as some argue that the tourbillon is obsolete, overtaken by technological advancements in regularity and isochronism, devoted watch enthusiasts, craftsmen, and brands maintain that this legendary innovation still enhances precision. In fact, today’s leading watch brands compete fiercely to create record-breaking timepieces utilizing tourbillons.
One of the most notable and distinctive aspects that set the tourbillon apart, aside from superior craftsmanship and precision, is its perpetual motion. Picture a choreographed dance of wheels and balances in continuous rotation on the watch dial — a captivating spectacle that resonates with the hearts and souls of watch aficionados.
Recognizing the allure of the tourbillon, top brands have refined their versions of the escapement, introducing features that enhance the appeal. These innovations include faster rotations (30 seconds instead of 60), larger viewing apertures, lighter-weight cages for optimal spin, and three-dimensional masterpieces with raised spheres and multiple axles. Some even offer double- and triple-tourbillon watches.
However, crafting these tourbillon timepieces is no easy task, often requiring years of research and development. Today’s leading watch brands enlist the expertise of engineers and scientists to push the boundaries of innovation, aligning with the demands of the 21st century. Due to their intricate nature, tourbillon watches are typically produced in limited editions and come with hefty price tags, ranging from $80,000 to $1 million based on brand, materials, and embellishments.
The past six to eight months, for instance, witnessed a trail of groundbreaking tourbillon watches, leaving an indelible mark on the world of horology.
Recently, Hublot unveiled its revolutionary MP 10 watch, which required five years in the research and development stages. It has no dial and instead boasts a roller-style time display. It has no hands, instead using arrows, and no oscillating weight — for watch lovers who understand this, it is mind-blowing. The weight (or rotor) is what typically winds a
mechanical watch, but in this piece, Hublot has developed its own Tourbillon Weight Energy System, consisting of a pully and linear weights, an inclined tourbillon, and a circular power reserve. The watch is futuristic in looks and technology.
From the inside out, the Ulysse Nardin Free Wheel Marquetry watch also showcases a revolutionary design thanks to the assembly of individual blue silicon plates to form a marquetry dial that acts as the backdrop for the movement parts of the UN-176 Manufacture caliber, showcased on the dial side. The flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock on the dial consists of 45 components alone and is equipped with the Ulysse Anchor Constant Escapement, a technical achievement. The anchor and balance spring are in silicon. The movement consists of 249 parts.
With a somewhat “classic” look on the top half of the watch, where a subsidiary dial showcases the time and offers a day/night indication, Glashütte Original’s recently released Senator Chronometer Tourbillon Premiere serves as a prime example of how traditional watchmaking can blend with advanced mechanics, depth, and dimension for superb appeal. For this watch, the German brand showcases its patented Flyback Tourbillon with a laser-engraved movement visible from the front. The manual winding Caliber 58-06 consists of an impressive 572 parts, including 85 jewels, and is a certified chronometer, attesting to its endurance in extreme situations and ability to keep precise time. A small seconds indication appears on the tourbillon cage and a power reserve indicator displays how much of the 70 hours of power reserve is left.
For those who love a classic look, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s recently released Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Enamel that features a polished 18-karat pink gold 40-millimeter case that measures 12.13 millimeters in thickness and boasts a stunning blue Grand Feu enamel dial with a sunray guilloché pattern. But what clearly reminds the owner and onlooker that this is a contemporary piece is the oversized aperture at 6 o’clock and the deep-seated tourbillon escapement within. Powered by the mechanical Caliber 978, the watch’s tourbillon escapement consists of 77 pieces, including a lightweight titanium cage. The watch is a study in sophistication and centuries of know-how.
Hublot – $264,000
A Manufacture Piece, this MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System watch is created in a limited edition of just 50 pieces. The revolutionary movement consists of 592 components including linear weights and an inclined tourbillon.
Ulysse Nardin – $137,000
Crafted in 18-karat white gold, this 45-millimeter Ulysse Nardin Free Wheel Marquetry watch boasts a dynamic tourbillon escapement system and features sapphire crystal case sides, allowing for a better view of the movement. The dial is a marquetry of blue silicon plates, all placed by hand.
Glashütte Original – $168,200
The 42-millimeter Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer Tourbillon is crafted in platinum and features a seconds hand on the tourbillon cage. It is resistant to magnetic fields and temperature changes thanks to a silicon balance spring and more. Only 50 pieces will be made.
Jaeger-LeCoultre – $118,000
The Master Ultra-Thin Tourbillon Enamel watch is powered by a new-generation mechanical movement with a deep-set tourbillon escapement at 6 o’clock, delivering depth and drama.
