8 Grail Watches From Industry Insiders

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Mike Manjos: Patek Philippe 5970P
mmanjos@wbgcorporate.com 

Without a doubt, the Patek Philippe 5970 is one of the finest Perpetual Calendar Chronographs ever made and regarded by many as the perfect Patek Philippe watch. The 5970 was produced from 2004 to 2011, the shortest production period for any Patek Perpetual Calendar Chrono. This Patek Philippe 5970P is platinum with a beautiful black dial. Equipped with a chronograph, am/pm indicator, perpetual calendar with day date, month, year, and leap year functions, it is one of the most technical examples on the market.


CQ Gottlieb: Patek Philippe 5960R
cq@wbgcorporate.com 

Originally released in 2006, the 5960 is Patek Philippe’s first automatic chronograph with an annual calendar. The 5960 is unique for its chronograph hand that also serves as a center seconds hand. The 5960-010 features an elegant 40.5mm Rose Gold case, which houses a contrasting black dial equipped with chronograph, date, power reserve, center seconds hands, and am/pm indicator functions. The Patek Philippe 5960R is finished with a black large-scale crocodile strap and matching rose golf folding clasp.


Peter Bell: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Dual Time 26120st.oo.1220st.01
pbell@wbgcorporate.com 

From the famous Royal Oak collection with the immediately recognizable hexagon design bezel secured by 8 screws, the Dual Time in Stainless Steel continues to grow in popularity within the watch industry. Ever since its introduction in 1972, Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak, with its unusual octagonal porthole bezel with hexagonal screws, has been a favorite of watch aficionados for its old world style with a modern twist. The crisp white and black dial features the ability to set and hold two separate time zones, while tracking the Royal Oak’s power reserve with an indicator located at 9 o’clock. A matching stainless steel bracelet and iconic AP fold-over clasp completes the timeless styling of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Dual Time.


Armand Johnston: Greubel Forsey Balancier Sport GF09X
armand@govbergwatches.com 

The Greubel Forsey “Balancier” perfectly embodies our fundamental principles. Every detail of the “Balancier” carries the unmistakable stamp of a true Greubel Forsey timepiece, the watchmaking Maison’s values are manifest in the refinement and purity of its lines and dial, the inventive architecture of its balance wheel, the sharp profile of its hands, and the engraving on the reverse of the timepiece. The 45mm sport model features a titanium case that surrounds its blue dial, which includes functions like hours, minutes, small seconds, and a power reserve indicator. Alongside the luxury brand name of Greubel Forsey, the Balancier Sport GF09X is limited to only 18 pieces.


Bill Comfort: Patek Philippe 59901r
bcomfort@wbgcorporate.com 

Patek Philippe presents the Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph Reference 5990/1 in a generous rose gold version contrasting with the sunburst blue dial featuring an embossed horizontal pattern and applied hour-markers. The baton-style hands are in rose gold with a luminescent coating. This new model combines three highly sought-after complications: a self-winding flyback chronograph, an easy-to-use Travel Time function (dual time-zone), and a date display, coupled with local time. The Patek Philippe 59901R features a self-winding in-house movement equipped to hold two timezones: local and home time indication. The 40.5mm Rose Gold sport model holds a 120-meter water resistance, protecting the desirable Sunburst Blue dial from any outside forces. A matching rose gold bracelet and Nautilus fold-over clasp completes the luxury-styling of the Patek Philippe 59901R.


George Mayer: FP Journe Jade tourbillon platinum bracelet
george@govbergwatches.com 

While the challenges of producing dials in stone are well known to other manufacturers, mostly these are produced in circular disk making the cutting action simpler and minimizing the risk of stress points from corners. F.P. Journe being F.P. Journe took a different approach. While ideally the stone dial would be cut from one piece, due to the configuration of apertures on the dial, it would not be possible due to the small amounts of material around the tourbillon and the offset dial, as well as the constant risk of fracture during cutting. The two crescent shaped pieces above and below are still very complex with numerous curves and differing radii, as well as the screw holes which have to be drilled, making for what one can imagine is a nerve wracking experience for the maker as well as numerous failed attempts along the way, before a perfect example is produced. But all of the hard work pays off when one sees the illuminating effect created by the light passing through the ethereal green tone of the jade as well as the unique signature each dial has due to the veining within the stone. While it is impressive when viewed from afar, it takes on a whole new dimension when admired through a loupe. This particular example is further distinguished by the matching solid platinum bracelet which gives a watch known for its simplicity and compact nature, a suitably substantial feeling on the wrist making the owner abundantly aware of the importance of the work of art they are wearing.


Josh Thanos: A. Lange & Söhne Datograph 403.035
jthanos@wbgcorporate.com 

The A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Flyback was introduced at the 1999 Baselworld as the world’s first chronograph based on the classic column-wheel principle with precisely jumping minute counter and patented oversized date. It stops events with a duration up to 30 minutes with an accuracy of one-fifth of a second. The precisely jumping minute counter allows easy reading of the stopped time. The flyback function allows the chronograph to be instantaneously reset to zero during an ongoing measurement by simply pressing the chronograph button. As soon as it is released, a new timing cycle begins, hence eliminating the need to stop a measurement and reset the stop hand before starting a new timing. The patented oversized date in the twin gold-framed window ensures excellent legibility. The movement consists of 405 parts, the plates and bridges are made of untreated German silver and finished with circular graining and Glashütte ribbing. The balance bridge is manually engraved with a master’s personal free-hand technique, making each Datograph a one-of-a-kind watch.


Jason Mane: De Bethune DB28 Tourbillon DB28TIS5C6PN
jasonm@govbergwatches.com 

De Bethune is revisiting its classics and reasserting its identity codes through the DB28 collection, a strongly identifiable timepiece endowed with the signature House style features and conveying its resolutely avant-garde vision of the watchmaking art. The wearer comfort of the DB28 stems from the surprising lightness, and to the presence of “floating lugs”, a patented system that easily adjusts to the size of the wrist and its various movements.


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