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Close-up of an Audemars Piguet watch face showcasing horological highlights—visible intricate gears, rose gold details, and a blue outer ring with screws—making it a standout among the most expensive watches.

By Jordan Aquistapace –  June 13, 2025

Horological Highlights: The Most Expensive 2025 Watch Rel...

Luxury watch brands continue to push the envelope in 2025 with some of their most expensive and lavish releases to date. These premium timepieces are designed to make bold statements through a combination of premium metals, complex movements, and jaw-dropping dials. Take Patek Philippe’s new Quadruple Complication Ref. 5308G-001, for instance. It’s a seven-figure example packed with horological heavy-hitters like a minute repeater, split-seconds chronograph, and an instantaneous perpetual calendar, all tucked inside a polished white gold case. On the other side of luxury, Rolex just introduced the all-new Land-Dweller 40mm in platinum, complete with a diamond-set bezel and ice-blue honeycomb dial.Watches like these are conversation starters, collectibles, and expressions of expert craftsmanship at its peak. And with the growing trend of new watches with big price tags, 2025 is shaping up to be a standout year for high-end horologists with a taste for the extraordinary. Patek Philippe Quadruple Complication Ref. 5308G-001 Price: $1,237,270 Patek Philippe The Patek Philippe 5308G Grand Complication brings together a minute repeater, split-seconds chronograph, and instantaneous perpetual calendar in a polished white gold case. Its new self-winding caliber packs 799 components, while a sunburst ice blue dial and navy alligator strap round out this quietly complex, collector-focused watch. Learn More Roger Dubuis Excalibur Grand Complication DBEX1174 Price: $691,000 Roger Dubuis Making its debut at Watches and Wonders 2025, the Excalibur Grande Complication features a flying tourbillon positioned between 5 and 6 o’clock. Housed in a 45 mm pink gold case and limited to just eight pieces, it reflects Roger Dubuis’ unconventional approach to watchmaking as the brand marks its 30th anniversary. Learn More DeBethune DB Kind of Two “Season 3” Price: $235,000 DeBethune Swizz Beatz teamed up again with De Bethune for the DB Kind of Two GMT ‘Season 3.’ Limited to ten pieces, the watch shows off a reversible zirconium and titanium case with one contemporary open-worked dial and one classic guilloché design. Learn More IWC Big Pilot's Watch Shock Absorber Tourbillon Skeleton XPL Price: $188,000 IWC Schaffhausen The IWC Big Pilot's Watch Shock Absorber Tourbillon Skeleton XPL (Ref. IW357701) combines a tourbillon with the brand's SPRIN-g PROTECT® shock absorber system. Its futuristic look showcases a skeletonized dial, setting the IWC-manufactured 82915 movement on center stage, while the case is crafted from robust materials like titanium to provide both strength and lightweight comfort. Learn More Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti Price: $170,000 MB&F MB&F and Bvlgari explore new ground with the Serpenti, its second watch collaboration shaped by contrast. The watch features rotating domes for hours and minutes, a visible balance wheel, and a sculptural case offered in three limited editions. It’s an unconventional collaboration that leans into both brands’ distinct design characteristics. Learn More Rolex Land-Dweller Price: $116,900 Rolex Rolex introduces the Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller, a fresh take on integrated bracelet watches with a new look and advanced mechanics. Available in 36 mm and 40 mm, it features a newly designed Flat Jubilee bracelet that perfectly blends with the Oyster case. The honeycomb diamond dial pattern adds texture, while the bezel also comes set with diamonds. Learn More Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked Price: $101,000 The 41mm Royal Oak Openworked in “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” ceramic introduces modern look with its openworked movement on full display inspired by a classic color developed in 1972 . The rhodium-toned mechanics contrast with pink gold hands and markers. Powered by the self-winding Calibre 3132, it features a double balance wheel design for precision. Learn More

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By Roberta Naas –  April 22, 2024

Time's Whirlwind: The Legendary Tourbillon

Historically reserved for classic watches, the complicated two-centuries-old tourbillon invention continues to climb to new heights with top brands offering a diverse landscape of ultra-precision, ultra-alluring, and definitively superlative watches. In fine watchmaking, the tourbillon (French for “whirlwind”), represents not only a rare phenomenon, but also one of the most desired intricacies among collectors. Its allure lies in the continuously rotating escapement, a dual-purpose mechanism that enhances accuracy while elevating aesthetic appeal. Cherished for its rarity, beauty, and captivating charm, the tourbillon escapement traces its origins back more than 220 years, yet it continues to be one of the most coveted features in watchmaking. Essentially, the mechanical tourbillon compensates for errors in timekeeping due to the effects of gravity on the watch when held in different positions. Hublot View All Luxury Watches For Sale The first tourbillon was invented by Abraham-Louis Breguet and patented in 1801; the first tourbillion escapement sold four years later. Breguet’s device is brilliant in its simplicity: to counter gravity-induced timing errors, the mechanism constantly rotates the balance wheel, balance spring and escapement while the movement is running, countering gravity-induced timing errors. Originally, the idea was developed for pocket watches, which predominantly remained in the same position inside a gentleman’s pocket. The tourbillon stands as one of horology’s finest inventions, and one of the most important technological leaps forward in watchmaking. Today, advancements such as nanotechnology and precise micro-machining have somewhat simplified the production of the intricate components needed for increasingly precise tourbillons. But the tourbillon is the foundation. Glashütte Original Even as some argue that the tourbillon is obsolete, overtaken by technological advancements in regularity and isochronism, devoted watch enthusiasts, craftsmen, and brands maintain that this legendary innovation still enhances precision. In fact, today’s leading watch brands compete fiercely to create record-breaking timepieces utilizing tourbillons. One of the most notable and distinctive aspects that set the tourbillon apart, aside from superior craftsmanship and precision, is its perpetual motion. Picture a choreographed dance of wheels and balances in continuous rotation on the watch dial — a captivating spectacle that resonates with the hearts and souls of watch aficionados. Recognizing the allure of the tourbillon, top brands have refined their versions of the escapement, introducing features that enhance the appeal. These innovations include faster rotations (30 seconds instead of 60), larger viewing apertures, lighter-weight cages for optimal spin, and three-dimensional masterpieces with raised spheres and multiple axles. Some even offer double- and triple-tourbillon watches. Ulysse Nardin However, crafting these tourbillon timepieces is no easy task, often requiring years of research and development. Today’s leading watch brands enlist the expertise of engineers and scientists to push the boundaries of innovation, aligning with the demands of the 21st century. Due to their intricate nature, tourbillon watches are typically produced in limited editions and come with hefty price tags, ranging from $80,000 to $1 million based on brand, materials, and embellishments.  The past six to eight months, for instance, witnessed a trail of groundbreaking tourbillon watches, leaving an indelible mark on the world of horology. Recently, Hublot unveiled its revolutionary MP 10 watch, which required five years in the research and development stages. It has no dial and instead boasts a roller-style time display. It has no hands, instead using arrows, and no oscillating weight — for watch lovers who understand this, it is mind-blowing. The weight (or rotor) is what typically winds a Jaeger-LeCoultre mechanical watch, but in this piece, Hublot has developed its own Tourbillon Weight Energy System, consisting of a pully and linear weights, an inclined tourbillon, and a circular power reserve. The watch is futuristic in looks and technology. From the inside out, the Ulysse Nardin Free Wheel Marquetry watch also showcases a revolutionary design thanks to the assembly of individual blue silicon plates to form a marquetry dial that acts as the backdrop for the movement parts of the UN-176 Manufacture caliber, showcased on the dial side. The flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock on the dial consists of 45 components alone and is equipped with the Ulysse Anchor Constant Escapement, a technical achievement. The anchor and balance spring are in silicon. The movement consists of 249 parts. With a somewhat “classic” look on the top half of the watch, where a subsidiary dial showcases the time and offers a day/night indication, Glashütte Original’s recently released Senator Chronometer Tourbillon Premiere serves as a prime example of how traditional watchmaking can blend with advanced mechanics, depth, and dimension for superb appeal. For this watch, the German brand showcases its patented Flyback Tourbillon with a laser-engraved movement visible from the front. The manual winding Caliber 58-06 consists of an impressive 572 parts, including 85 jewels, and is a certified chronometer, attesting to its endurance in extreme situations and ability to keep precise time. A small seconds indication appears on the tourbillon cage and a power reserve indicator displays how much of the 70 hours of power reserve is left. For those who love a classic look, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s recently released Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon Enamel that features a polished 18-karat pink gold 40-millimeter case that measures 12.13 millimeters in thickness and boasts a stunning blue Grand Feu enamel dial with a sunray guilloché pattern. But what clearly reminds the owner and onlooker that this is a contemporary piece is the oversized aperture at 6 o’clock and the deep-seated tourbillon escapement within. Powered by the mechanical Caliber 978, the watch’s tourbillon escapement consists of 77 pieces, including a lightweight titanium cage. The watch is a study in sophistication and centuries of know-how. View All Luxury Watches For Sale Hublot - $264,000 A Manufacture Piece, this MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System watch is created in a limited edition of just 50 pieces. The revolutionary movement consists of 592 components including linear weights and an inclined tourbillon. Ulysse Nardin - $137,000 Crafted in 18-karat white gold, this 45-millimeter Ulysse Nardin Free Wheel Marquetry watch boasts a dynamic tourbillon escapement system and features sapphire crystal case sides, allowing for a better view of the movement. The dial is a marquetry of blue silicon plates, all placed by hand. Glashütte Original - $168,200 The 42-millimeter Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer Tourbillon is crafted in platinum and features a seconds hand on the tourbillon cage. It is resistant to magnetic fields and temperature changes thanks to a silicon balance spring and more. Only 50 pieces will be made.  Jaeger-LeCoultre - $118,000 The Master Ultra-Thin Tourbillon Enamel watch is powered by a new-generation mechanical movement with a deep-set tourbillon escapement at 6 o’clock, delivering depth and drama.

On Your Own Time: The Art Of Personalized Watches

By Roberta Naas –  August 29, 2022

On Your Own Time: The Art Of Personalized Watches

While some watch brands and die-hard collectors argue that aftermarket customization of watches is blasphemy, certain brands are trying their hands at creating their own personalization projects. For years, the watchmaking world has frowned on aftermarket customization. You know, buyers who take their Rolex or Audemars Piguet, for example, to third-party artisans to have them decked out in diamonds, gemstones, or even blackened and engraved with tattoo-like designs. Most of those watches, though, could not hold their value on the secondhand or auction market because the modifications are a personal preference. However, strong demand on the part of watch lovers for an individualized look has prompted some brands to start their own personalization processes. Porsche Design Watch brands at ultra-high echelons such as Vacheron Constantin and Patek Philippe have been known to create one-of-a-kind highly complicated watches for special customers over the years. (Consider the fabled 1900s battle between these two brands and business magnates James Ward Packard and Henry Graves Jr. to see who could build, and own, the most complicated watch in the world.) Today, these companies continue to quietly produce one-offs for preferred customers, but sometimes those watches take years to complete. So, for the purposes of real watch lovers who want something personalized at a level they can afford — and not wait years for — some brands have developed programs to let consumers customize certain elements of a watch, from selecting the dial color, to the strap, the engraving, the metal for the case, and more. These varying degrees of customization are beginning to garner a lot of attention and, depending on the provenance of the watch, some even hold their value on the auction market. Bamford In the realm of artistic customization, Jaeger-LeCoultre has long offered personalization of its Reverso design (rectangular watches whose case swivels open and can be reversed to show a second side); they can be hand-painted with scenes or portraits that customers provide. The brand also offers hand-engraving on the Reverso. In similar fashion, Corum offers customization of its Golden Bridge Dragon watch. The dragon that curls around the caliber is available in special Pantone colors. Each color is exclusive, meaning the brand will never issue the same color to any other customer. Certain independent watch brands like Kari Voutilainen and H. Moser & Cie. also offer personalized dial colors and hand-guilloché finishes in very limited amounts. The independent brands have it a little easier when it comes to making customized pieces simply because their production levels are not as large as the mainstays — meaning they don’t necessarily have to stop creating a particular watch to retool the machinery and create a one-off. Their master watchmakers and artisans are equipped for one-of-a-kind finishing, for instance, without shutting down production like a larger brand would have to do. Jaeger-LeCoultre On a more commercialized level, some brands are offering online configurators for customization. Watch buyers can select a host of different details to personalize, including dials, straps, stitching accents, colors of bezels or chapter rings, and in some cases, even movement parts. For instance, IWC Schaffhausen, a Richemont brand, introduced an online customization configurator where buyers could pick the aspects they wanted to customize for their Ingenieur timepieces. Porsche Design recently joined the configurator pack. The Porsche Design Chronotimer Chronograph chronometer is fully customizable; customers can pick PVD (physical vapor deposit) case coatings, bezel colors, bezel functions, dial colors, hands, straps, and stitching. They can even pick the paint color for the winding rotor inside the Caliber WERK 01.100, which matches the options available for the Porsche 911 car. With so many elements to customize, Porsche Design says there are 6 million possible combinations. Jaeger-LeCoultre Another of the most successful providers of custom watches is London- based Bamford Watch Department, known for issuing small collaboration series. The company has worked with LVMH brands including Zenith, TAG Heuer, Bulgari, and Hublot as well as with Girard-Perregaux and others. Additionally, Bamford’s eponymous brand provides more than a billion different combinations for its sport and lifestyle lines. With so many companies offering these services, and more on the horizon, the new question is: Why not customize your time?

Omega Speedmaster Main

By Roberta Naas –  April 29, 2022

Vintage Revisited: Re-Edition Watches Worth Your Time

It’s no secret re-edition watches and timepieces that recall the classics from the past are making a huge impact on the watch collecting world. Wrists everywhere are beginning to make statements of yesteryear — but with a decidedly modern flair. With all of the noise being made on the watch auction market and with second-hand watches flying out the doors of online sellers in droves, it’s hard to ignore the fact that nostalgia is back in style in a very big way. And that definitely goes for watches.  Just a few years ago, Omega made a huge splash by unveiling vintage re-editions that were exact replicas of original 1950s watches they mimed. The movements, though, were totally new – offering modern-day accuracy to fractions of a second. Following that successful launch, other brands jumped on board and the concept of re-imagining the past has moved full steam ahead. Today, watch brands are deftly making their marks with capsule collections that utilize new colors and materials, yet are inspired by yesteryear, or with updated versions that celebrate an important anniversary. As watch brands – from the affordable to the luxury companies – scour their archives for inspiration, they also vow to keep their back stories and legends in the forefront. It is part of the narrative that makes these watches so desirable.  The key to the success of these re-editions is that each is somehow a faithful reinterpretation of golden eras. They are all true in some way to the originals and capture the look and feel of retro chic. However, they are often made using modern materials that are more rugged and durable, and, the best part of all: they house modern-day movements that can go the distance with today’s active lifestyles. The new calibers are often more water-resistant, more precise, and easier to care for than their 40-to-70-year-old muses. Breitling Breitling Top Time Triumph In a new partnership with 120-year-old British Triumph motorcycles, Breitling and Triumph unveiled the Top Time Triumph inspired by the café’ racer culture of the 1960s and the Top Time watch released then by Willy Breitling. The watch boasts a brushed finish and the beloved “Zorro” (slashed) dial in pale blue and with cushion-cornered subsidiary dials indicative of the time. The color is derived from the 1951 blue Triumph Thunderbird 6T and the 1970s Breitling Top Time Ref. 815. A COSC-certified chronometer movement powers the 41mm watch. $5,500. Zenith Zenith Defy Revival A3642 Zenith has a rich and storied past that even includes a time when the top watchmaker hid the plans for the now-famed El Primero movement in an attic (adding a brick wall for added security) so they couldn’t be destroyed during the quartz revolution. Now, Zenith releases the Defy Revival A3642 watch that recalls the first Defy watch launched in 1969. The mechanical watch is almost 99% true to that original in case shape, design, and dial color. It does boast an updated high-tech El Primero movement, sapphire crystals, and modern-day luminous materials. $7,000. Audemars Piguet Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Self-Winding 37mm In tribute to the 50th anniversary of the classic Royal Oak watch designed originally in 1972 by the famed Gerald Genta, Audemars Piguet unveils new 37mm version in stainless with a light blue dial color (Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50) that is almost an exact replica of the original but made with updated PVD processes. Slight details on the case, bracelet, and dial are evolutions of the original that allow for better ergonomics, thinner profiles, and stronger aesthetics. The oscillating weight of the self-winding movement is rhodium-plated 22-karat pink gold and bears the “50 years” insignia. $24,100. OMEGA Omega Heritage Speedmaster Caliber 321 Canopus Gold Chronograph The first  Omega Speedmaster watch unveiled in 1957 was designed for professional race car drivers. An immediate success, it went on to enjoy many iterations, including the now-famed Moon watch. Now, in honor of the 65th anniversary of the Speedmaster, Omega unveils the 18-karat Canopus Gold™ Caliber 321 Chronograph inspired by that first model. The 38.6mm watch, made in the brand’s proprietary brilliant-white gold, is powered by a column-wheel chronograph movement and boasts broad arrow hands and three classic subdials like the original. The crown bears the NAIAD symbol like the original CK2915 models did, as well. $81,000. IWC Shaffhausen IWC Big Pilot’s Spitfire IWC Schaffhausen regularly recalls its impressive past in the world of aviation and the recently released Pilot’s Spitfire watch is a prime example. Crafted in the age-old material of bronze, this 43mm watch is inspired by the brand’s pocket watches of yesterday and by its historic “mil-spec” watches of the 1940’s made for the British Air force. This new bronze watch features a hypo-allergenic titanium case back and is equipped with an in-house-made mechanical movement and a soft-iron inner case to protect against magnetic fields – an invention created by IWC in the 1930’s. $9,350.

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