Every spring, the watch world more or less migrates to Watches and Wonders Geneva, where brands take over the city to roll out their latest releases, big ideas, and quiet updates alike. It’s part showcase, part industry reset, and a solid reminder of how wide the spectrum of watchmaking really is, from technical flexes to subtle refinements you might miss at first glance. For Zenith, this year is more about tightening the connection between where they’ve been and where they’re going.
Across the new releases, that approach comes through pretty clearly. It’s all about reimagining icons by playing with materials, opening things up, or just slightly shifting the tone. Whether it’s something more classic or a bit more modern, all the new watches are still tied back to the same core DNA, just from a different angle.
G.F.J. (Bloodstone and Tantalum)
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The new take on the Zenith G.F.J. is a nod to what the brand has always done well. It still centers around the revived Caliber 135, a movement with real credibility thanks to its run in mid-century observatory trials, but here it’s presented in a way that’s subtle and simple instead of overworked. The 39.5mm yellow gold case maintains a familiar size and shape, while the eye-catching bloodstone dial adds just enough texture and vibrancy to stand out without trying too hard. It’s clean, balanced, and focused on timekeeping first, which is kind of the point. For a brand like Zenith, that restraint goes a long way.
The tantalum version completely shifts the look and feel. Limited to just 20 pieces, it opts for something cooler and quieter, with a case that feels heavier both physically and visually. Tantalum isn’t the easiest material to work with, and that character comes through in the finished watch. The black onyx dial and diamond hour markers subtly add a touch of luxury you wouldn’t immediately notice at first glance. Underneath, it’s still the same Caliber 135. It ends up being a different perspective on the same idea, which makes it arguably the more interesting of the two.
Chronomaster Sport Skeleton
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The new Zenith Chronomaster Sport Skeleton focuses on something ZENITH has always done well, letting the movement do the talking. Instead of covering things up, this new collection opens everything up with a skeletonized dial that fades from smoked to clear, giving you a straight view into the El Primero 3600. It’s still that same chronograph at heart, ticking along at 5Hz and measuring down to a tenth of a second, but now it feels more visual, like the mechanics are part of the design. The familiar tri-color subdials keep it rooted in that original 1969 DNA, while the 41mm case and ceramic bezel keep it wearable as a true, modern sports watch.
Where it gets more interesting is in the different variations. The stainless steel models split into two styles, one with a green ceramic bezel and more toned-down grey counters, the other sticking closer to the classic look with a black bezel and the signature tri-color layout. Then there’s the rose gold version, which adds more weight and contrast with its black bezel and rubber strap. Completing the collection, the limited 10-piece rose gold edition with a full diamond-set bezel pushes things into another world of luxury altogether. Still, inside all of them, it’s the same El Primero doing its thing, which is probably why it all still feels pretty on par for Zenith.
Chronomaster Sport MOP
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