Skip to content
 

By Jordan Aquistapace –  December 26, 2025

Why The Chronograph Is The Ultimate Automotive Watch

The chronograph has long since distinguished itself as a cornerstone in both automotive history and watchmaking, even making its mark as the first watch to land on the moon’s surface. Regarded as one of the most versatile timepieces ever created, with the ability to function as a stopwatch and a traditional watch, the chronograph has become a staple for collectors and enthusiasts who appreciate its everyday usefulness and historical significance. Historically, the chronograph has been associated with influential figures like Paul Newman and Steve McQueen, further cementing its position in the timeline of luxury watches with examples like the Rolex Daytona Cosmograph and TAG Heuer Carrera. For automotive aficionados, the chronograph represents that bridge between the realms of competitive racing and haute horology. Whether for gauging lap times or fine-tuning a race car’s on-track capabilities, the chronograph offers multiple levels of accuracy that are indispensable for both drivers and teams. Roger Dubuis Understanding how a chronograph works reveals why it’s such a valuable tool for racing. Functionality is what sets it apart from all other wristwatch variations, which is why its technology has been adopted by Swiss watch icons like Rolex, Audemars Piguet, TAG Heuer, and so many others. While it maintains the basic features of a standard wristwatch, additional complications allow it to measure elapsed time with remarkable accuracy. This is achieved through extra sub-dials and pushers that control the stopwatch function separately from the primary time display. For pioneering and modern-day drivers, this is important for tracking lap times and analyzing other performance metrics. The origin of the chronograph dates back to 1816, when Louis Moinet, a French watchmaker, created the first modern chronograph. His invention could measure time to 1/60th of a second and is still recognized as the significant advancement in precision that laid the groundwork for future developments in timing technology. Without Louis Moinet and his ingenious creation, the watch world would be without coveted models like the Zenith Chronomaster Original and Omega Speedmaster. TAG Heuer In the context of racing, the chronograph’s ability to provide detailed timing information is invaluable. Accurate lap times and performance measurements help teams and drivers make strategic adjustments and improvements. Imagine standing trackside at the 24 Hours of Le Mans while carefully monitoring lap times from your wrist to guarantee a victory at the checkered flag. Despite technological advancements, the chronograph’s straightforward design and accuracy continue to make it a relevant tool in motorsport today. The chronograph offers a compelling entry point for those interested in luxury watch collecting, with a vast range of price points and styles that are sure to fit the needs of any watch lover. Its historical significance, combined with its practical functions, makes it a noteworthy piece for both seasoned collectors and newcomers. The chronograph’s blend of functionality and heritage ensures its place as a respected and enduring part of the world of fine watches.

Nov23 Spread Live

By Roberta Naas –  December 16, 2023

The duPont REGISTRY 2023 Luxury Watch Guide

We all know that in life, time may be one of the most precious commodities. It can’t be bought, bargained for, or gotten back. So why not keep track of it in style? Welcome to our annual “Watch Guide,” where we take a close look at what goes into the making of some of the finest watches in the world — from astonishing creativity to startling technical advancements and jaw-dropping aesthetics. Akin to the supercar and hypercar industries, watchmaking tests the skills of the finest mechanics, challenging them to meet higher standards than ever before. From the screeching tires on the asphalt to the hypnotic tick of a watch’s heart and hands, automotive and horological enthusiasts share an unspoken appreciation for finely tuned instruments. While the automotive world focuses on pushing boundaries in horsepower, aerodynamics, and cutting-edge technology, watchmakers, too, continually master the art of pushing the envelope. They are building faster, more precise movements, adding innovative — often patented — technologies and creating 3D works of art and design worthy of display in a museum. In this, our annual watch guide, we embark on a mission to showcase some of the finest timepieces the world has to offer. Reflecting the watch trends of the moment, we present three categories: Classics; Complications; and Air, Land, Sea. So sit back and indulge in the world of creativity, function, form, and performance. Classics A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone A. Lange & Söhne German brand A. Lange & Söhne is known for its clean designs and precise manufacturing. A beloved favorite has always been the Lange 1 Time Zone watch, which the brand recently released in 950 platinum with a solid silver dial that indicates home time and a second time zone at a single glance. The 41.9-millimeter watch houses a manually wound movement and offers outsized date indication, power reserve (70 hours) indication, and a day/night indicator. Price On Request Learn More Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Tourbillon Vacheron Constatin With the recently unveiled Traditionnelle Tourbillon in platinum, Vacheron Constantin modernizes this beloved watch with a sunburst green dial for contemporary appeal. The 41-millimeter timepiece is powered by an ultra-thin self-winding movement (caliber 2160/1) with a peripheral rotor that slims down the movement thickness along with the final cased watch. In constant rotation, the tourbillon-regulator mechanism at 6 o’clock beats at a slow frequency (18,000 vibrations per hour), yielding a mesmerizing mechanical dance. The watch offers 80 hours of power reserve and carries the coveted Hallmark of Geneva. Price On Request Learn More Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer Glashütte Original This German brand’s legacy of tradition and innovation shines in the Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer watch. This 42-millimeter, 18-karat white gold chronometer is powered by an in-house manual winding movement with a Panorama Date, a day/night indicator, a power reserve indicator, and — at 6 o’clock on the dial — an offset seconds subdial. The shock-resistant watch is a certified chronometer, attesting to the fact that it passed a strictly controlled 15-day test by an outside observatory to gauge precision in five positions and at three temperatures. The silver-plated dial is a classic beauty with solid gold, blue-coated, appliqéd Roman numerals and a railroad chapter ring. Price: $32,300 Learn More Accutron Spaceview Evolution Accutron Always a pioneer with new power sources — this is the brand that brought the first electronic tuning fork watch in 1960 — Accutron’s Spaceview Evolution boasts electrostatic technology inspired by the Spaceview it released in 2020. The new version is accurate to plus or minus 5 seconds per month thanks to the two turbines on the dial side (the larger one is an electrostatic motor). The new design of this classic watch shifts the angle of the movement by 30 degrees, so the turbines are off-center, and the crown is at 2 o’clock instead of 3 o’clock. The 43.5-millimeter piece features a domed sapphire crystal. Price: $3,950 Learn More Parmigiani Tonda PF Micro-Rotor Parmigiani Watchmaker Michel Parmigiani dedicates himself to classic, elegant design with top-notch movements. The Tonda PF Micro-Rotor follows in that theme with a polished and satin-finished, stainless steel case with a hand-knurled platinum bezel. The 40-millimeter watch is powered by the PF703 automatic winding manufacture movement. It is equipped with a platinum micro-rotor and 48 hours of power reserve and consists of 176 individual components. The dial features a classic finish with a Grain d’Orge guilloché pattern that is created by hand. Price: $22,900 Learn More Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Small Seconds Jager-LeCoultre Invented in 1931 for polo players, the Reverso has become an icon thanks to a unique case design that features a dial/case that pushes sideways out of its cradle and can be flipped to showcase either a secondary dial or a solid case back. The new Reverso Tribute Small Seconds is a nod to the past with a hint of modernity. The rose gold case with midnight black dial pairs with an interchangeable strap from the Fagliano collection (in collaboration with the Argentinian makers of the beloved polo boots). The watch is ultra-thin thanks to the manually wound caliber 822 mechanical movement that contains only 108 components. Price: $22,700 Learn More Richard Mille RM 30-01 Richard Mille Richard Mille has always rocked a distinctive look inside and out. Its newest RM 30-01 is examplary of this singularity, as it is equipped with a world’s first: an automatic movement with a declutchable rotor, demonstrating the brand’s commitment to technical excellence. Essentially, when the automatic movement has reached its optimal level of winding, the rotor disengages and no longer continues to wind the movement until its power has dropped out of the zone again. This prevents overwinding and the damage that ensues. In typical Richard Mille style, the strong aesthetics of the geometric tonneau case and skeleton movement ensure recognition from across a crowded room. In rose gold and titanium. Price: $253,000 Learn More Rolex 1908 Rolex This year, famed watch brand Rolex discontinued its niche Cellini watches and replaced them with the exciting, new 198 collection. With timeless elegance, this 1908 39-millimeter, 18-karat yellow gold watch features a domed and fluted bezel and a stark white dial. The watch is powered by the brand’s housemade bidirectional self-winding Perpetual movement (caliber 7140) that is precise to +2/12 seconds per day. Offering 66 hours of power reserve, the watch is chocked with high-technology components, including a Syloxi hairspring made of silicon with patented geometry, as well as high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers. Price: $22,000 Learn More Patek Philippe Calatrava Travel Time Patek Philippe Always a classic, Patek Philippe’s Calatrava watches continually evolve but always stay true to their own style. The recently released, 42-millimeter Calatrava Travel Time in rose gold boasts a rich blue dial with 24-hour time indication using Arabic numerals in gold. There is also a subsidiary seconds dial, in addition to the second time zone indication. The watch is powered by a proprietary automatic movement with 48 hours of power reserve. The movement, which carries Patek Philippe’s Seal, is visible via a transparent case back. Price: $54,900 Learn More Complications Wilbur Leo JW1.1 Wilbur Watch Co. An acronym for “living extraterrestrial object,” Jason Wilbur’s Leo is a sculpturefor the wrist that was years in the making. Inspired by his fascination with aliens, Wilbur crafts the eight-part case in titanium and black DLC with blue accents and incorporates cryptic symbols as art. The watch is powered by the Wilbur Engine One movement, made by Concepto in Switzerland, and offers a jumping hour in the center. Three versions will be made, all in limited editions. Price: $32,500 Learn More Corum Concept Corum The new Corum Concept watch, created in titanium and manufactured in very limited numbers, eschews a traditional dial and adds an aventurine back plate instead, making the movement parts appear to float in plain view. The 39.5-millimeter watch wields a flying tourbillon move- ment, sapphire crystal bridges and plates, and 90 hours of power reserve. The case back is etched with arrows and the names of the parts that are visibleviatransparentsapphire windows. It is finished with a blue recycled-Velcro strap and a new adjustment system. Price: $465,000 Learn More Jacob & Co. Twin Turbo Furious Jacob & Co. A grand complication and a world premiere, the newest Twin Turbo Furious combines three incredible complications: a twin triple- axis sequential high-speed tourbillon, a minute repeater, and a monopusher column wheel chronograph. It marks the first time Jacob & Co. has combined a triple-axis twin tourbillon with a repeater. The manually wound JCFM05 caliber consists of an incredible 832 parts. Crafted in 18-karat 5N rose gold and carbon fiber, the watch boasts an anti-reflective domed sapphire crystal and a crystal case back for viewing the exception movement. Price: $550,000 Learn More Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Minute Repeater Sonnerie Audemars Piguet Legendary brand Audemars Piguet pushes its innovative materials concept further in this high-complication watch by using black ceramic for the case. The intricate Supersonnerie movement, which chimes the hours, quarter hours, and minutes on demand, has an all-new sound when paired with this material. The caliber 2953, patented, hand-wound movement consists of 362 components, including the hammers and gongs needed to sound the time. The black dial boasts a Grande Tapisserie pattern, and the white gold hour markers are coated with luminescent material. Price On Request Learn More Breguet Classique Minute Repeater 7637 Breguet A true leader in watchmaking invention, Abraham-Louis Breguet built the first repeater watches with a spring bell in 1783. The spring bell replaced the gong that had been in use. Today, Breguet pays homage to that invention with its new 42-millimeter, 18-karat rose gold Classique 7637 repeater that strikes the hours and minutes on demand. The 358-part movement is hand- wound and offers 40 hours of power reserve. For a truly elegant look, Breguet’s master artisans turned to the art of Grand Feu enamel for the black dial. Price On Request Learn More Hublot Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Full Carbon Hublot A master of fusion, Hublot’s new Big Bang watch is a blend of fine watchmaking and cutting-edge materials. It is equipped with an automatic micro-rotor tourbillon and 72 hours of power reserve thanks to the house-manufactured, 282-part skeletonized move- ment. The case is crafted of carbon fiber and Texalium and boasts a seamlessly integrated bracelet of the same material. The movement is fully visible thanks to a trans- parent sapphire crystal and case back. Only 50 pieces will be made. Price: $127,000 Learn More HYT Conical Tourbillon HYT Swiss watch brand HYT was the first to use fluid to indicate time on its watches. It continues to evolve that approach in the Conical Tourbillon watch, which features a tourbillon escapement in the cente of the dial that is 3D with a raised, cone-shaped format. A fast-moving tourbillon that completes a single revolution every 30 seconds, the movement is visually arresting. Surrounding the escapement are tiny spheres of green luminous fluid, and on the outer portion of the dial, the HYT fluid system indicates the time. A mere eight pieces will be made. Price: $368,000 Learn More Kross Studios KS 05 Central Floating Tourbillon Kross Studio Relatively young independent Swiss brand Kross Studio recently unveiled its KS collec- tion of watches spotlighting a raised, 3D central floating tourbillon escapement in the 220-part movement. The tourbillon cage with a fixed seconds wheel mechanism is patented. The case is crafted in titanium, and instead of a traditional crown at 3 o’clock, there is a ring integrated into the case side so as not to disturb the harmony of the look. The dials are set on two levels, and this version is set with aventurine. Price: $122,900 Learn More Ulysse Nardin Freak One Ulysse Nardin Highly unusual in its look, the Freak One watch is equipped with a flying carousel and a patented Grinder that enables the carrousel to rotate on its own axis. Like the tourbillon, the carrousel defies gravity when the watch is in a vertical position and keeps the timekeeping accurate. However, the carrousel has two powertrains, equipping the watch with 72 hours of power reserve. Additionally, there is no crown; the UN 240 automatic movement is set using the bezel. Price: $68,600 Learn More Air, Land, and Sea Blancpain Air Command Blancpain Since the 1950s, Blancpain has been working with military aviators to provide the best pilot watches possible. The Air Command watches offer a chronograph with flyback function that enables the wearer to reset the chronograph instantly without having to stop and start it. The watch also features a countdown bezel and tachymeter scale for measuring speed. The automatic 255-part movement offers 40 hours of power reserve. It is crafted in brushed titanium with blue ceramic inset and Super-LumiNova hours and markers. Price: $18,900 Learn More IWC Pilot's Watch Black Aces IWC Shaffhausen For almost 90 years, Swiss brand IWC Schaffhausen has been building pilot watches and, in recent decades, has collaborated with some of the military’s finest, including the elite fighter pilots of Top Gun. Now, it has teamed with the U.S. Navy Black Aces squadron to release the Pilot’s Watch Automatic 41 Black Aces. For this timepiece, the brand unveils its first-ever fully luminous dial — a solid disk of Super-LumiNova that glows light green in the dark. It is crafted in zirconium oxide ceramic and powered by the IWC-manufactured 32100 caliber. Price: $6,800 Learn More Zenith Pilot Zenith Watches The only watch brand with the rights to print “pilot” on its aviation watches thanks to trademarks filed in 1888 and 1904, Zenith has a lengthy connection to the world flight. The newest Pilot Automatic watch is equipped with a central second hand and a big date indication at 6 o’clock. Powered by the El Primero 3620 high-frequency (5Hz) automatic movement, the watch boasts 60 hours of power reserve. It is crafted in black micro-blasted ceramic with a black dial that showcases horizontal grooves. The hands and numerals are coated in SuperLumiNova. Price: $9,600 Learn More Breitling AviChronograph 42P-51 Mustang Breitling Celebrating 70 years of the Av1Co-Pilot watch and planes, Breitling has manufactured several new 42-millimeter Classic Avi Chronograph 42 P-51 Mustang watches. This 18-karat gold chrono- graph houses the Breitling self-winding Caliber 23 movement that beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour and is a COSC-certified chronometer — attesting to its rugged and precise abilities. It is water-resistant to 100 meters, features glare-proof sapphire crystal, and contains blue-emitting SuperLumiNova numerals and indexes. Price: $38,200 Learn More Angelus Chronodate Angelus This Angelus Chronodate combines retro styling with precision timing for contemporary appeal. It is crafted in durable titanium with a titanium bracelet and a fern green dial. The numerals and hands are coated with Super-LumiNova for easy reading in the dark. Water- resistant to 30 meters, the watch offers a chronograph function and a peripheral date in addition to hours, minutes, and seconds. It is powered by the Caliber A-500 self- winding movement that beats at 28,000 vibrations per hour. Price: $24,900 Learn More TAG Heuer Monaco Racing Blue TAG Heuer Timing while on land looks good with this silver sunray dial Monaco Racing Blue automatic chronograph. The 39-millimeter timepiece is crafted in titanium and features a circular sapphire caseback with the inscription “One of 1,000.” The limited- edition watch is powered by the Caliber 11 automatic movement with the crown placed on the left side of the case. Price: $9,200 Learn More G-Shock Mr-G Frogman G-Shock From G-Shock, this MR-G for the sea is crafted in lightweight and durable titanium. Shock resistant and water-resistant to 200 meters, the Frogman is solar-powered. Time adjustment is radio-controlled, and the watch boasts diving mode, time tracking, and surface-time measurements, among other features. The case consists of 70 pieces and is built to withstand the elements. Price: $5,000 Learn More Cvstos Sealiner PS Cvstos Perfect for a day of sailing, the Cvstos Sealiner PS delivers dramatic appeal thanks to its sapphire tonneau-shaped case that measures 53.70 millimeters by 41 millimeters. The skeletonized self-winding mechanical movement lets you view some of the movement parts, behind which, a teak-inlaid decorative appliqué emulates a ship’s deck. Equipped with 42 hours of power reserve, the watch is water-resistant to 100 meters and finished with a rubber strap. Hands and markers are coated with Super-LumiNova. Only 25 pieces will be made. Price: $49,500 Learn More Panerai Luminor Chrono Carbotech Luna Rossa Panerai Paying tribute to its ongoing partnership with Luna Rossa and the Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli sailing team (participating in the 37th annual America’s Cup in 2024), Panerai unveils the high-tech Luminor Chrono Carbotech Luna Rossa watch. In addition to the advanced case and bezel material, the watch houses a P.9200 automatic movement with Glucydur high-tech balance and an Incabloc anti-shock device. It offers chronograph, speed tachymeter dial, and luminous numerals, markers, and hands. It is water-resistant to 100 meters. Price: $48,000 Learn More Franck Muller Vanguard Yachting Anchor Skeleton Franck Muller Hailing from one of Franck Muller’s bestselling collec- tions, the Vanguard Yachting Anchor Skeleton watch features seafaring details that include its deep-blue color, a compass rose, and compass directions on the outer flange of the tonneau-shaped watch. Crafted in 18-karat rose gold, the watch is powered by a 175-part manual winding movement with seven days of power reserve thanks to two barrels. It is water-resistant to 30 meters. Price: $50,400 Learn More

safeshero

By Roberta Naas –  October 26, 2023

The Best Luxury Watch Safes

In an era where timepieces have become not only functional accessories but also valuable investments, watch enthusiasts and collectors are increasingly recognizing the importance of watch safes to protect their prized possessions. Watch safes are purpose-built to safeguard valuable timepieces from theft, fire damage,and environmental factors. They are often constructed of reinforced steel and equipped with humidity control systems and tamper-proof locking mechanisms. The most sophisticated of these units are designed to meet the needs of watch collectors, combining watch-friendly features with elegant aesthetics. For instance, many are equipped with watch winders to keep certain complicated mechanical timepieces properly wound so they don’t need re-setting when the wearer is ready to change wrist wear. Naturally, watch safes also offer organization and convenience for horophiles with large collections. These beautiful watch safes and large winder boxes can even be displayed in the living room or office, considering many feature luxurious materials and finishes that make them true statement pieces. Casoro K2 Family-owned and in business for 29 years, Casoro manufactures its safes in the United States. The brand’s security ratings are tested and verified by independent third parties. In fact, the burglar rating is awarded by Underwriters Laboratory, and the fire rating is awarded by Edison Testing Lab. Casoro offers two residential-grade levels of security as well as two commercial grades. Depending on your needs, this almost-5-foot-tall Casoro K2 safe can be configured with either 12 programmable watch winders and four drawers, along with just over 2 feet of open space, or with 24 programmable winders and three drawers. There are also 14 different interior configurations for the soft-close drawers . With anchor holes in the floor corners, the safe can be customized, with a wealth of paint and fabric colors, interior mirror options, exotic woods, and more. This Bullion Gold K2 retails for $28,855. Learn More Wolf 1834 Churchill Founded in 1834 by Philip Wolf, who made beautiful boxes for home and travel, Wolf continues to be family-run and specializes in boxes, winders, and safes. This Churchill safe can be fully customized by the client, with modifications including the type and color of the leather, the wood, the interior drawers and winders, and even the hardware color. Woods and leathers can be selected not only in different colors, but also in different textures. More than 16 options are available for both the leather and the wood. Additionally, the owner can select an entire safe of watch winders (32) or drawers (11) or a mix of both. The watch winders are Bluetooth-controlled with rotating options of one to 1,999 turns per day. This Churchill leather-wrapped safe is made using Bordeaux crocodile. The starting retail price is $98,995. Learn More Orbita Avanti 48 This independent watch company was established in 1996 by Chuck Agno in Wilmington, North Carolina. While the company makes winders as small as a single box, it also creates substantial modular cabinets that double as décor. This Avanti 48 free-standing automatic watch winder is a prime example. The Italian-made cabinet, with exotic Macassar veneers and carbon-fiber accents, boasts 48 Rotorwind winders that gently swing the watches, or programmable winders that enable the owner to set the direction and number of turns per day. The 5-foot cabinet, priced at $49,995, features a glass front that puts the spotlight on the watches within. Learn More Brown Safe Man Safe 6018 Founded in 1980 in Vista, California, Brown Safe is known as a leader in custom jewelry and watch safes for the public and the military — the brand’s safes are made in the United States. With ballistic windows on the front to view at least one single vertical row of watch winders, the Man Safe 6018 can be custom-built to the owner’s specifications. The one shown here is wrapped in carbon fiber with a blue ultrasuede interior. When open, the high-security safe has stainless-steel drawers with a matching carbon-fi ber inlay. Thanks to an exclusive agreement, Brown uses only Orbita automatic Rotorwind or Programmable watch winders in its safes. Two configurations are available, and both can be further customized with colors, materials, and enhanced fire protection. For $20,784, this version contains 16 winders, three drawers, and 20 inches of open space. Learn More Featured in Our November 2023 Issue Buy Single Issue Subscribe

Oyster Perpetual Explorer 40

By Roberta Naas –  October 04, 2023

Perfect Adventure Watches For Daring Explorations

Humankind has an insatiable appetite to learn more, to investigate, and to explore. Today more than ever before, we are witnessing a renewed interest in adventure and exploration. Whether it be diving, flying, climbing mountains, surfing waves, studying land masses or the sea, or some other passion, adventure is here to stay. To keep that wandering spirit company, top watch brands are creating timepieces that can go the distance with everyone from scientists to outdoor researchers and explorers. But timekeeping and adventure have always been inseparable. Charles Lindbergh wore a Longines watch on his wrist in 1927 when he made that famed solo flight across the Atlantic Ocean in a single-engine plane. Upon his return, he worked with Longines to create a more apt tool watch, the Longines Hour Angle, which is still in the collection today. When the Aqua Lung for diving was developed in the 1940s, Blancpain recognized the need for a watch to withstand water, pressure, temperature changes, and other elements and developed its first Fifty Fathoms watch (a timepiece still in production today) with Capt. Robert Maloubier, founder of the French Combat Diving School. Montblanc on the summit of Everest May 2022. Photo Mingma Sherpa. Copyright Nimsdai, Courtesy of Montblanc. When Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay made the first successful ascent of Mount Everest in 1953, they did so with the help of oxygen tanks and with a Rolex watch to time every move to the minute. That watch was built to withstand pressure, extreme temperatures, and shocks and would become the Rolex Explorer — also still built to this day. Earlier this year, Rolex unveiled the Oyster Perpetual Explorer 40 that recalls the watches worn by Hillary and Norgay. Today, more and more brands are investing in the creation of tool watches for professionals and explorers to help them in their quests to push the boundaries. Montblanc spent years developing a Zero Oxygen watch for extreme mountain climbers, working with mountain climber Reinhold Messner (the first to climb Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen). The Zero Oxygen watch case is designed to be impenetrable by oxygen when the crystal is put on certain humidity and temperatures. Earlier this year, the brand released a new series, The 8000, to honor the peaks that are over 8,000 meters high and the climbers who summited them. One version will accompany mountaineer and Montblanc brand ambassador Nimsdai Purja — the fastest to climb all 14 of the world’s highest peaks (in just over six months) — on his next climbing venture. Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay on their climb to the top of Everest. Speaking of ambassadors, Breitling collaborates with small groups or “squads” that specialize in certain areas. Its explorer squad includes Bertrand Piccard, the first person to fly nonstop around the world in a balloon; Inge Solheim, who has guided wounded veterans on North Pole expeditions; and David de Rothschild, who built a sustainable ship from plastic bottles reclaimed from the ocean and sailed it from California to Sydney, Australia. Forming this squad was a natural extension for the brand, which was the first to create a watch for extreme adventurers. Dubbed the Emergency, it is the world’s first watch to be equipped with a dual-frequency distress beacon that can be activated to help search-and-rescue teams find its wearer. As official timekeeper of the recently concluded six-month-long Ocean Race, a sailing race around the world where tiny crews navigate the world’s oceans and some of the most treacherous waters on the globe, Ulysse Nardin is all about adventure. Also a sponsor of the 11th Hour Racing Team, the brand equips the team’s crew with its precision Diver watch whose case is made almost entirely of recycled fishing nets. When the teams all sailed into Newport for supplies and a few days of rest from what is considered the ultimate test of human adventure, Ulysse Nardin unveiled its newest Ocean Race Diver Chronograph, launched in collaboration with The Ocean Race. Montblanc 1858 Geosphere Chronograph Zero Oxygen$9,800Montblanc’s 8000 Limited Edition 290 is powered by a mechanical movement, has the compass points on the bezel, and showcases the Northern and Southern Hemispheres via the two globes. Blancpain Tech Gombessa$28,000Blancpain celebrates the 70th anniversary of the Fifty Fathoms with the 47-millimeter titanium Tech Gombessa watch in honor of Laurent Ballesta’s Gombessa project, created to study rare forms of sea life. Ulysse Nardin Ocean Race Diver Chronograph$15,700The Ulysse Nardin Ocean Race Diver Chronograph is made mostly from recycled fishing nets and powered by a mechanical movement. It fêtes the brand’s role as official timekeeper of the Ocean Race. Breitling Emergency Night Mission$18,760Worn by Breitling’s explorer squad, this watch is powered by a COSC-certified SuperQuartz chronograph movement. It emits a dual-frequency distress beacon when activated. Luminox Survival Outdoor Explorer$995 The 45-millimeter Bear Grylls Survival Outdoor Explorer chronograph by Luminox features date display, a dial with SOS in Morse code, and a case crafted of Carbonox for rugged durability. The watch is equipped with a black rubber strap with a small removable compass attached to it and is water-resistant to 300 meters. Rolex Oyster Perpetual Explorer 40$9,797Recalling the 1930s and onwards, when Rolex began equipping expeditions with Oyster watches, the 40-millimeter Oyster Perpetual Explorer 40 watch is crafted in proprietary Oystersteel and equipped with a high-precision Superlative Chronometer certified mechanical movement. Longines Hour Angle$5,400A few years after his solo transatlantic flight, Charles Lindbergh worked with Longines to create the Hour Angle watch for aviation, still made today in the Heritage Avigation range. This automatic watch features an internal rotating dial that synchronizes seconds with a radio time signal, and a rotating bezel to adjust to the equation of time. DOXA SUB 300T Clive Cussler$18,760The limited-edition SUB 300T Clive Cussler from DOXA honors its namesake, the late author and founder of the National Underwater and Marine Agency. Water resistant to 4,000 feet, the 42-millimeter aged stainless steel watch has a unique finish with a dive bezel that has a worn, weathered appeal. It is sold in a “book” box that can be placed on a bookshelf, and a portion of the proceeds benefit NUMA. This Article Was Featured In Our August 2023 Issue Subscribe Now Buy Single Issue

alange main

By Roberta Naas –  February 06, 2023

Clocking Miles: 3 Spectacular World-Time Watches Worth Yo...

As you flock to warmer climes for the winter, a world-time watch will keep you on time — no matter where you go. Planning to travel the world? Or at least to a destination not in your time zone? You could reach for a dual- or triple-time-zone watch, or you could opt for a world-time machine, which will tell you the time in any of the key 24 zones around the globe with a simple glance at your wrist. Generally, surrounding the watch dial, a world-time watch boasts an internal bezel displaying the zones. It also features a 24-hour ring that tracks day and night in each zone. World-timers are among the most complex watches depending on the movement inside, the way it tracks time, and how it enables its user to set the watch. Often adorned with a map, world-time watches are not only alluring to look at, they will also keep you on time while you’re jet-setting or making business calls around the world. A. Lange & Söhne - $57,800 German watch brand A. Lange & Söhne has mastered the art of world-time watches with a clean and sophisticated design typical of the brand’s Bauhaus style. The 41.9-millimeter Lange 1 Time Zone is crafted in 18-karat pink gold and powered by a manually wound movement with 72 hours of power reserve. It is fitted with a sapphire case back, revealing a magnificently finished movement. IWC Schaffhausen - $17,400 One of the most user-friendly world-timers on the market, the Pilot’s Watch Timezoner Top Gun Ceratanium houses a patented system for indicating global time. The brand’s proprietary automatic self-winding movement (caliber 82760) powers the 46-millimeter timepiece, which features complex Pellaton winding and 60 hours of power reserve, one of the highest for world-timers). Just 500 pieces will be made annually due to the complexity of the watch. Montblanc - $7,000 The newest version of the Montblanc Star Legacy Orbis Terrarum clocks in at 43 millimeters. It’s stainless steel with a black-and-gray dial that boasts a rose-colored map of the continents in the center with gold-accented meridians. The multilevel dial provides depth and dimension. It is powered by an automatic movement with a Manufacture world-time complication and has 42 hours of power reserve.

watchesmain

By Roberta Naas –  January 27, 2023

Red Carpet Time: A Look At 2022's Award-Winning Watches

A look back at the highlights of the watch world in 2022, particularly at the winners of the industry's red carpet awards. Every industry has its own celebrations that honor the finest brands, the most innovative solutions, or the most creative designs. The watch industry is no exception. Annually for the past 22 years, watch lovers have flocked to Geneva to the glamorous Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) award ceremony. Top brands, CEOs, master watchmakers, and collectors gather together at the Théâtre du Léman to see which timepieces unveiled during the year were the most celebrated. Just as in the automotive world, entries are categorized and judged. In fact, the GPHG Academy consists of 650 key figures in the watch profession who vote on watches in more than a dozen different categories, including complications, astronomy, art, high-jeweled, mechanics, chronometry, and best in show. This year, that distinction went to independent watch brand MB&F for its Legacy Machine Sequential EVO watch, which we featured in our November watch guide. Essentially, the brands that take the top spot in each category, and even the runners-up, represent the best and brightest in the industry. From small independent brands to big household names, the list of nominees and winners reads like a veritable who’s who. Here, we take a look at just a few of the winners. M.A.D. Editions M.A.D. 1 Red At a glance, anyone who knows the visionary mind of Maximilian Busser, founder of MB&F, can see his signature touches on the M.A.D. 1 Red watch, which took the top spot in the Challenge category (watches retailing for $3,500 or less). A secondary label for MB&F, whose wristwatches typically sell for well over $100,000, M.A.D. Editions creates more accessible time machines offered to MB&F “friends” via a raffle. The automatic mechanical watch is crafted in stainless steel and boasts a lateral time display on the case side — leaving the dial side totally free for the titanium and tungsten triple-blade winding rotor to take center stage. The blades constantly rotate with every move of the wrist, not just powering the watch, but offering a visually stunning attraction. Ferdinand Berthoud FB 2RSM.2-1 Taking the winning position in the Mechanical Exception category, this Ferdinand Berthoud watch boasts a highly complex movement with a fusée-and-chain transmission tourbillon to compensate for errors in timekeeping due to the effects of gravity when the watch is in certain positions on the wrist, and with deadbeat seconds. The manual-wind mechanical movement is a COSC-certified chronometer. In this watch, the barrel and inverted fusée are suspended and patented. The regulator style dial displays hours at 2 o’clock, minutes at 12 o’clock, and offers a central seconds hand. Just 20 pieces of the 18-karat ethical 5N rose gold watch will be made. Hermès Arceau Le Temps Voyageur Crafted in platinum and titanium, with a lacquer and galvanic engraved dial, the 41-millimeter Hermès Arceau Le Temps Voyageur won the Men’s Complications category (and a 38-millimeter blue-dial steel version won the Women’s Complications prize). The watch houses a specially made self-winding mechanical movement that offers a new way to read the time in the cities around the world via a 122-part “traveling time” module that is integrated into the caliber. Essentially, the inner dial that showcases the hours and minutes moves around the dial, and the red arrow indicates the world time in pointer style. An aperture at 12 o’clock uses 24-hour time indication for day/night information.

paneraimain

By Roberta Naas –  July 07, 2022

Designed For Utility: A Selection of Watches With Useful ...

Useful functions and features equip these timepieces to go the distance, while robust and durable materials — and housemade movements — withstand the toughest of elements. Casio Grand Seiko Commemorating the 20th anniversary of the Spring Drive model, the newest Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph GMT, priced at $11,000, finds inspiration in the mountain town of Shizukuishi, Japan, where these watches are made. Crafted of high-intensity titanium, the watch case is rugged and resistant to scratches. The Spring Drive movement offers extreme accuracy in chronograph timing, and a dual-curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating reduces glare. Learn More Panerai An automatic P.900-caliber mechanical movement powers the Panerai Submersible Azzurro, designed for professional divers. Water-resistant up to 300 meters, the stainless-steel timepiece features a ceramic dive bezel with a graduated scale. The bezel turns counterclockwise to avoid accidental ratcheting. Luminous hour markers and dots make for easy underwater reading, and a rubber strap keeps the watch in place. It’s an online exclusive for $9,800. Learn More Casio Like its name insinuates, the $800 G-Shock Mudmaster GWG2000-1A1 resists mud and other elements, including shock. It features a high-tech forged carbon bezel and case structure with steel pipes and silicone buffers, making for a compact design. Triple-sensor measurements include compass, altitude, barometric pressure, and temperature indications and heavy-duty rubber grips make for easy operation. It syncs with atomic timekeeping, and double LED lights ensure readability. Learn More

watchesmain

By Edward Jones –  March 28, 2022

Watch Collecting Gone Crazy

Watch Collecting Gone Crazy By Roberta Naas. Just a couple of months ago in late December, Phillips in Association with Bacs and Russo auction house held its final sale of 2021 – and realized $35.9 million in sales of vintage and pre-owned watches via 165 lots. The achievement marked the most successful watch auction in American history. Additionally, just like all of the house’s 2021 sales, every lot in the December New York Watch auction sold – bringing the year to a “100 percent sold” status (never accomplished by an auction house before) and setting a milestone record for annual sales of $209.3 million. Lot 1T was the biggest sale at the Phillips New York Auction. The brand new stainless steel Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A-018 with a Tiffany Blue dial was created to commemorate the long-standing partnership of the two brands , The watch (supposedly the last Ref. 5711 the brand will make) sold for a whopping $6.5 million, despite its original estimate of $50,000. The proceeds from this sale go to The Nature Conservancy as per Tiffany’s request. This sale from just a single auction house is representative of the current state of the watch market. The pre-owned marketplace is on fire now and the incredible feeding frenzy among collectors and connoisseurs looking to snap up certain watches for their investment portfolios has led to a shortage of watches and huge hikes in prices, with certain pre-owned watches commanding higher prices than brand new watches. Lot 102 was a George Daniels watch, circa 1971, that is a twin barrel one-minute tourbillon pocket watch chronometer. It was sold with a handwritten letter by the master watchmaker and inventor extraordinaire and a double-ended key. Expected to fetch between $600,000 and a million dollars, it sold for $1.6 million. ”There are a lot of parallels between the car and watch markets. These are enduring objects that will last an eternity, but the supply is just too little to meet the demand and the values continue to grow,” says Paul Boutros, Head of Watches, Americas. “The market is the strongest it has ever been for collector watches because there are so many new people discovering and buying exceptional vintage and modern pieces as they look for ways to have fun with their cash.” While buying watches at auction has always been hot, the pandemic helped fuel the fire as more and more people stopped traveling and started investing in their passions. In fact, the year-end results from Phillips indicates that sales are up 89 percent from the pre-pandemic levels in 2019. Additionally, with the wealth of information available online, it’s easy to self-educate about what watches are a good investment and why. As with so many Rolex watches at auction, Lot 41 -- the 1969 Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Ref. 6241 – sold for more than $1 million. The very rare yellow gold chronograph Paul Newman watch (nicknamed after the watch Paul Newman owned and that sold for $17 million at auction a few years ago) boasts a black “John Player Special” black dial and features a gold bracelet. It sold for $1.2 million. So, for those looking to get in on the long-term profits of a good watch investment, the first rule of thumb is to buy the so-called “Holy Grail” brands like Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Rolex, A. Lange & Sohne and a few others that are always in high demand and never seem to lose their value. Similarly, some of the top independent watch brands like Richard Mille, F.P. Journe and MB&F are so rare and hard to find that when one does pop up at auction, heated bidding is sure to ensue. Be prepared and have a budget pre-planned. A look at some of the top lots from the December auction will give you a rough idea of how much you might have to spend to own one of the world’s most expensive pre-owned timepieces. Buy This Issue Subscribe

Live Auctions