Some watch collaborations simply put two recognizable names on the dial, while others actually bring something meaningful back to life. The latest Porsche Design and Hodinkee collaboration falls into the latter category, revisiting one of the most recognizable chronographs of the late 1970s and 1980s. The new Porsche Design Chronograph 1 Utility–Limited Edition for Hodinkee is limited to just 350 pieces, but the bigger story is the return of a movement that collectors have been waiting more than two decades to see again.
The watch takes inspiration from Porsche Design’s military Chronograph 1 models, which were built around the idea that a chronograph should be easy to read, dependable, and useful first and foremost. That philosophy came through most famously with the Lemania 5100, an automatic chronograph movement known for its unusual central chronograph-minute hand, 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock, running seconds at 9 o’clock, and 24-hour indicator at 12 o’clock. It eventually disappeared after the movement was discontinued, leaving vintage Porsche Design military chronographs and other Lemania 5100-powered watches popular among collectors.
Porsche Design essentially took that formula and rebuilt it. The newly developed WERK 01.340 brings back the central chronograph-minute display and 24-hour indication while adding modern performance, COSC certification, and a 60-hour power reserve. The 42mm case is made from uncoated titanium, keeping things lightweight and tying the watch back to Porsche Design’s earlier titanium chronographs. Even the dial stays focused on functionality, with a blacked-out design, red accents, Super-LumiNova, a 12-hour chapter ring, and the simple “Utility” designation at 3 o’clock.
The watch comes fitted on a matching titanium bracelet, but Porsche Design and Hodinkee also include an Agave Green leather Bund strap made from material inspired by Porsche sports-car interiors. A quick-change system makes it easy to switch between the two without tools, giving the watch a more traditional military-watch appearance when desired.
The Porsche Design Chronograph 1 Utility–Limited Edition for Hodinkee is also the second chapter of the brands’ three-part collaboration, following the 2024 Chronograph 1–Hodinkee Edition. Limited to 350 pieces worldwide, it launched on October 1 for $9,650, with 100 examples allocated exclusively to Hodinkee and Watches of Switzerland in the U.S.
Source: Porsche Design/Hodinkee